Odin Makes: Sword of Omens from Thundercats

Odin Makes: Sword of Omens from Thundercats


(Thundercats theme music plays) (posts popping) Hello, I’m Odin and today
I’m gonna make a sword. It’s the Sword of Omens, from
the original Thundercats. (bellows) For my pattern I found the
original character sheet for the Sword of Omens online. But then I found this cleaned
up version by maillemaster on his Thingiverse page. And I scaled his drawing
so the grip of the sword is about the same size as a
three quarter inch PVC pipe. Now I plan to add details onto the pipe so I actually wanted to make
it a little smaller to start. I also remade the Thundercats
logo and printed it to be the same size as my plans. Now these color prints are
laser printed, not inkjet. So that way the colors
won’t run if they get wet. I’ve measured the thickness of the blade and two layers of six millimeter HD-Form will be nearly perfect. Next, I measure the overall thickness of the Eye of Thun-dera. I’ll make the base of each eye
from 10 millimeter HD-Form. This will be my first
project using HD-Form and I already like it, it is a denser foam and the lighter color means I
can use anything to mark it, even a pencil, (chuckles) I
don’t need so many silver pens. I set the Foamwerks circle
cutter to fit the print out and cut out four circle of foam. I want to make two sets of eyes. Now this circle cutter is really nice but I need a new blade. To make the wall around the eye I cut out 15 millimeter strips of HD-Foam. Now these are six millimeter thick and I glue these around the base. The Eye of Thun-dera needs
a lens and I have two ideas on how to do it. For one set I mark where
the circle base would sit in a six inch plastic ornament. So the Sharpe mark is actually
gonna be my fill line, what I wanna do is mix up
some clear casting resin and pour it into here to make
the lens for the eye solid. If I just leave it the
hollow plastic all by itself, chances are good it’ll break
at some point in the future. If it’s solid, it won’t do that. I was worried I might get air bubbles or have some other problem
so with the second set I place the printouts and then
pour Super Glaze over them to make the eye.. I try to keep the bubbles to a minimum, as they float to the top
a heat gun or hairdryer will pop the bubbles. It’s gonna take a few hours
for these resins to set up, so I can play Vikings
War of Clans. (chuckles) Yeah that’s right, Odin is telling you to play a game about vikings
(chuckles) and it’s free. Vikings War of Clans was
inspired by the famous strategy and RPG games of the 90s
that we all loved and played with a dedication that today’s youngsters will never understand. And if you’re looking for a
game that combines strategy, team play, and where time invested will pay off with victories, (chuckles) this game is for you. You are the leader of your own kingdom. And you begin by building your town, searching the area for
resources and building up your own army. And the game has excellent character and strategy progression. Live events and competitions, and historically accurate atmosphere. Help support my channel by
downloading Vikings for free using my special link
in the description below and get a special bonus of 200 gold coins and a protective shield. And don’t forget to look me up under my Vikings clan name, Odin Makes. Oh hey, friend. I cut out the blade from two
sheets of six millimeter foam, it’s long enough to go all
the way back to the grip. I like to add something
inside my sword blades to keep them stiff, and
this time I’m just using a quarter inch aluminum rod. I press the rod into the
foam which is not easy, this foam is strong. But I make a mark and I can use a dremel to hollow out the blade and
make room for the aluminum. My cuts are not perfect but
this will do for what I need. By placing the rod into the cutout when I glue it altogether,
it minimizes the bump in the blade tops and
keeps the blade thinner. The sides of the blade did not match up nearly as well as I liked. So I cut out a piece from each side and glued in a triangle wedge of HD-Foam, this is 10 millimeter foam wedge and by carefully gluing it to the sides I can get a better
cutting edge on the sword than if I just sanded
the foam to make a blade. To make the cross guards
I need some thicker stuff so I glued some 10 millimeter foam onto some six millimeter. It is much easier to cut
up foam that’s this thick with a scroll saw and I’m
using a spiral cut blade which will cut in any direction
and cuts delicate shapes into thick foam very easily. I clean up the edges of the
cross guards with a dremel and then stand them on my belt sander because the cross guards
taper towards the top. And remember to hold onto your foam when you’re using the belt sander. I cut out the pattern for the details that go on the cross guard. I trace them onto some two millimeter foam and make the cutouts. I glue the cross guards
down, trim off the excess two millimeter foam, and
I have recessed panels on my ornate tapered cross guards. To build up the center of the cross guard I glue more six millimeter
foam to the base of the blade, top, bottom, and each side. I make space for the eye to sit later and then I can use the
dremel to clean up the sides to get that curved notch back
in the side of the blade. I add two more strips
of 10 millimeter foam. The cross guard is pretty thick. And a layer of two millimeter
for the recessed panel. There is another two millimeter panel between the cross guard and the eye. And then I cut out the tinniest of wedges from that triangle piece to
make the little arrowheads that go under the eye. Then I glue the cross guards into place. It weighs nothing. I make another circle
for the top of the grip and I bevel the edge with a dremel and then I glue it on to the
bottom of the cross guard. I cut my piece of three
quarter inch PVC pipe to be the grip of the sword. And then I use acetone to
remove the manufacturers marks that are on the pipe
so that they can’t show through the paint layers later. I’ve had this happen too often and I don’t trust that anymore. To really make the grip
solid, I wanna fill it in with a casting resin. But I’m gonna glue the pipe
to the cross guard first. Now this bit of glue I don’t
expect to actually hold, all I’m trying to do is
make a seal so when I pour the resin in, it doesn’t leak out. I mix the urethane resin together and carefully pour it into the pipe. I was surprised that I mixed
the exact right amount. That was amazingly perfect. (chuckles) Seems like that never happens. I just hold the sword and pipe in place. The resin sets up at about five minutes. The aluminum does get
warm and if I held it any closer to where the
resin is actually curing, it would be too hot for me to hold. I let the resin fully cure
and then I start sanding the PVC pipe. I add marks where I need
the grip details to go, and all of the little scratches that I had done form sanding will
help the contact cement grip to the plastic. I need the contact cement
because I add leather lacing to the pipe to make all the
ornate details on the handle. And surprisingly this went
together faster than I thought and I can add super glue to
help keep the edges together. I use a ceramic cutoff wheel
to remove the little bit of aluminum I don’t need. I cut out two disks of 10 millimeter foam and glue them together as
a start for the pommel. I put a threaded rod
through both layers of foam and attach them to my drill. And then use both of
them to sand a cone shape with my belt sander. And it worked really well, when
it didn’t just undo itself. (laughs) For the domed end of the
pommel, I cut the pink layer from the last cat toy that I had bought for my He-Man sword build. And I add another layer of cat toy and some two millimeter foam for the end. Then I can glue the cone
shape on to complete it. I use a bit of aluminum
tube to make circles on the dome of the pommel. And then I add more lines in the sides with a fine point wood burner. There’s a few more panel
lines in the cross guard, so I burn those in too. The pommel easily fits
over the aluminum rod and I glue that in place. I clean up some of the
seams and heat seal the foam with a heat gun. At this point the clear casting
resin is pretty much set up enough that it’s safe to touch. And I’m surprised to see
that all the air bubbles have cleared out. I still have the Super
Glaze pair if I need them in case something goes wrong. I’m gonna cover all of
the plastic with blue tape so I don’t scratch it up. While I carefully cut out
the lens for the big domes. Then I slowly sand the sides
down to fit the eye base and then remove the tape and test the fit. Now I’m gonna ahead and use the domed eye. So I glue the bases on and
then I add the last bits of two millimeter foam
panels that go on the blade. Now I want to seal the grip
or at least the leather, so I cover the whole grip with wood glue and let it dry over night. The next morning I tape over the grip and where the eye will go
and then I cover the rest with a couple of coats of plasti dip. I remove the tape from the
grip so I can spray everything with a brilliant silver spray paint. I fill in all the recessed
panels with a dark silver or pewter color. And add some of the color to the pommel. I water down some black shoe polish and darken just the corners on the grip, the cross guard and the
panels on the blade. I do a little bit at a
time and allow it to dry before I turn it over so the
black doesn’t drip or run. To add the gemstones to
the grip, first I carefully drill out a place for them
to go that’s free of paint and it’s flat. Then I can super glue the
gems directly to the PVC pipe, alternating them with blue and red. I use a tiny amount of craft glue to place the Thundercats logo. And then I super glue the lens on. I don’t want it to fall off. I just kind of tack it on a little bit. I tried to use as little glue as I could in just a couple of places
but I still got some that seeped under the
lens and over the logo. Next time I do something like this, I’ll just use craft glue for everything. As a final step, I add
some Pledge floor wax on the sides of the eye. Now this will help
reduce that frosted look from all the sanding. And if I ever scratch
the top dome of the eye, I can use the Pledge to
easily repair the scratch. (upbeat techno music) I ordered my HD-Foam from sksprops.com. All the other parts I used for this build I picked up locally. (air whooshing) I’m actually really happy with how well the HD-Foam turned out, I
mean this is the first time I’ve used it and this
is really quality stuff. I’m gonna be using a lot
more of this in the future. Something else I’m
excited about is how well the Eye of Thun-dera turned out. I really wasn’t sure how well I could cast and make my own lens and
this actually worked out and I’ve some ideas for
something else I can do using the same technique in the future. Now something that’s always
amused me with Thundercats is the fact that the sword
projects a giant red signal into the sky like a red bat signal. And this is how Lion-O summons the rest of the Thundercats, right? Basically it’s a giant laser pointer that all the other cats are drawn to. Kind of make sense, doesn’t it? Odin Makes. (bellows) Jesus, I feel like an idiot. (upbeat techno music) Oh, look at that, these are oversized. Aw you son of a– I wanna thank Rob Burch, Danny Scarberry and all of my Patreon subscribers. You guys really do help
keep this channel going. If you like this channel,
don’t forget to subscribe. Have an idea for something for me to make? Please, leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture. (techno music)

100 thoughts on “Odin Makes: Sword of Omens from Thundercats

Leave a Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *